Sanctus Vesica Piscium

Hans arrives in Santiago

2011-10-12T14:05:00.000-06:00

Sent 12 October: Now i am in santiago, in santa mass with botafumeiro.

Tomorrow i start to muxia, hans

Hans walks on and on

2011-10-09T16:36:00.001-06:00

Hans' gute Pilger Fortschritt-

Sent 3 October: Hola gary, thursday i start in oviedo, via grado,
salas, tineo and borres today to berucedo, the mainpart. Each day sun,
hot. Hans

Sent 6 October: Hi gary, now i leave the mountains. From berducedo to
grandas de salime, to fonsagrada and today to o cadavo. Tomorro i
arrive lugo. Hans

Sent 9 October: Now i am in melide, hotel xameiro, you remember? Best Hans

Hans begins the "Camino Primitivo" today

2011-09-29T20:20:00.001-06:00

From: Hans-Otto SchreyerDate: Sun, Sep 25, 2011 at 12:06 AM
Subject: Re: WALKING
To: Gary Regester

Holá Gary,

I send you the route from Oviedo to Santiago and to Fisterra.Possible only SMS, you know I have a simple mobilphone.

I am using two books, 1. "Camino Primitivo" Peter Lindental, Tyrolia, good maps, 2. from Raimund Joos, bad maps, too much details.

I arrive Oviedo at Sept. 27th. 11o'clock am, stay in Oviedo at 28h. Start walking from Oviedo at 29.th. Santiago 14 days later, walking to Fisterra in 4-5 days, back home at Okt. 21th.

Ultreia, Hans

Return to Santiago

2011-01-02T23:09:00.001-07:00

Gary, now the last day: From Fisterra back to Santiago, Pilgrim watching

Fisterra: Departure with the Bus to Santiago

The last view to the Cabo Finisterre

Pilgrims, arriving the Praza Obradoiro

Praza Praterías

High Mass for Pilgrims in the Cathedral

The last Paella

Pilgrims, Praza Obradoiro

Pilgrim-Cycles

Pilgrims, Rua do Franco

Pilgrim, needing Money, Rua do Vilar

Arriving Pilgrims at the Praza Obradoiro

Café Casino, Rua do Vilar

Pilgrims, Praza Praterías

Pilgrims, nice sleeping pad

Happy Pilgrim

Pilgrims equipment

Happy pilgrim

Unbelievable Meeting: Chris from Australia,

met in 2007 on the Camino Frances was on

the Camino Portugués with her Companion

Nice Pilgrim

Eva and Florian from Rosenheim, Germany,
are on a sailing trip around the world.
Coming from La Coruna, visitng Santiago. They
were very impressed over the town and the pilgrims

Beata from Poland

Pilgrims Praza da Immaculata

Leaving Santiago to the Airport

Flight at home, via Mallorca

Thoughts on the Caminho Portugues

2011-01-02T23:06:00.000-07:00

Summary and impressions of the Caminho Portugués and Camino Finisterre:

Porto was a very nice and impressived Town and a very practicable starting point.
The first stage, along the coast, was very beautiful. Then came "Gotafrio" an extreme weather front with heavy rain and storm and the next stage to Barcelos, therfore I go by Taxi. From Barcelos, a side trip by Bus (1 hour) to Braga, is recommended, a nice town, too.

The next stages up to the north, the Caminho is leading trough nice and green river-valleys, trough a lot of little villages (125!) and comes to lovely sites, like Ponte de Lima, Pontevedra, Padrón. The Caminho is winding, no long straight distances for walking inside, go in meditation, lag your minds. The weather in the first half was mixed with rain and sun. I met nice pilgrims, espacially Setsuko, Ingo and the group from Padrón with Paolo, Wolfgang, Irmtraud and Waldtraud.

In Santiago de Compostela were a lot of people, coming by Bus, and also a lot of Pilgrims. The reason, maybe, the Pope visit Santiago 3 weeks later, and, 2010 was an Holy Year. Inside the Cathedral were built scaffolds, the entrance into the cathedral was only possible over the Porta Santa and from the Praza Praterías, long queues. No backpacks and no foto shooting during the mass, forbidden. The Pilgrims were very disappointed.

However, it was nice in Santiago. The special spirit was all around. It is amazing, for watching the Pilgrims, which arrived to the Praza Obradoiro, the meeting-point. And I was always impressed for the fervancy in its creed!

Then came the last part, the Camino Finisterre. This Camino was very nice, the valleys not so small, with a view over the landscape, and not so intensely populated. I walked to Muxia, with the unique Sanctuary, situated in the cliffs. The leads the Camino along the coast to Fisterra, the old End of the World. A wonderful distance, walking alone. At the Cabo Finisterre, the Pilgrims were full of revel. All the struggles and some pains ending there. It was very amazing, waiting for the sunset and finally - Fin do Camino

-Hans

Caminho Finisterre 5. Stage

2011-01-02T18:46:00.000-07:00

Gary, now the last stage: from Fisterra to the Cabo Finisterre - Fin do Camino

Fisterra: Fishermen

Searching for a shell

Fisterra: Port

The Church Santa Maria,
on the road to the Cabo Finisterre

The Statue: La Peregrina

The Lighthouse at the Cabo Finisterre

The last Pilgrim Cruzeiro, at the Lighthouse

The last stone, Kilometer zero

Max, the scotsman, is burning up his shirt

Cruzeiro, Pilgrims laying down stones

Cheerful Pilgrims

Clothes, no more needed

Waiting for the sunset

The Lighthouse

Happy Pilgrims

Fin do Camino

Caminho Finisterre 4. Stage

2011-01-02T18:20:00.002-07:00

now Stage 4: From Muxia to Fisterra

The Village Xurantes

Hórreo

Landscape from the top of the Lourido Mountain

Landscape at the descent from the Lourido Mountain

Countrywoman carrying hay

Dogs in love

Near the Village Frixe

Frixe

Crossing over the River Castro, wet feet

Lires: Bar As Eiras, to have the stamp for the credential

Lires: Hórreos

Lires Valley

a quiet time

A herdswoman

Through the Forest

Walking along the sea

To the Village Buxan

Near Fisterra

View to the bay of Fisterra

Fisterra: Pilgrim Cruzeiro

In Fisterra, searching the Alberque

In the Alberque, issuing the document

The Monument for the Galcian Emigrants

Caminho Finisterre 3. Stage

2011-01-02T17:30:00.001-07:00

Olveiroa: Happy breakfast with Gallegos

Hórreo

Leaving the Casa Rural As Pias

Reaching the Village Hospita

Landscape around Hospital

Guide, left or right

On the Camino to the Village Dumbria

On the Camino to Dumbria

Dumbria: Pilgrim Cruzeiro

Dumbria: Washday

Through the Eukalyptus-Forest

Guide to Muxia

Hórreo

A countrywoman leading her Cows

Village A Grixa

Black Roads to Quintans

Moraime: Church of St. Xulian

now Stage 3: From Olveiroa to Muxia

Cruzeiro and the Capilla San Roque near Muxia

View to Muxia

Port of Muxia

Cruzeiro and Lighthouse near the Church

Sanctuary Virxen da Barca,
situated on the Cliffs of the Costa del Morte

Cliff, Costa del Morte

Cliffs, Costa del Morte

View to the Sanctuary

Caminho Finisterre 2. Stage

2011-01-02T15:49:00.001-07:00

Gary, now Camino Finisterre, Stage 2: From Negreira to Olveiroa

Leaving Negreira through the old town gate

Gary, now Camino Finisterre, Stage 2: From Negreira to Olveiroa

Zas: Church San Xulian

Sunrise after Negreira at the high plateau

Always through the Eukalyptusforest

Autumn

Near Cornado

Near Maronas

Break at the river Xallas

Maronas: Bar Casa Vitoriano

Hunger and thirst

Hórreo

Embalse de Ferrenza

The Village A Picota

The Church San Cristóvo

Hórreo

Olvreiroa: Casa Rural As Pias,
wonderful room, good dinner

Rest myself

Gallego's rest

Menue, Languages: En, Es, D

Pilgrims dinner

Caminho Finisterre 1. Stage

2011-01-02T15:13:00.002-07:00

Hi Gary, now the Camino Finisterre, Stage 1: Santiago to Negreira

Early in the Morning: The fist waiting Pilgrim,
at the Pilgrim-Office, for getting the Compostela

Beginning of the Camino Finisterre
at the Praza Obradoiro, Rua Hórtas

Last view to Santiago de Compostela

Through the Eukalyptusforest,
the typical Galician Forest

A Shell House (weatherproofed)

A typical Galician House

Hiking up to the Alto mar do Ovellas

In the Village Caraballa

Chestnuts

Ponte Maceira, over the river Tambre

Mills at the river Tambre

Cruzeiro, Ponte Maceira

Guidepost

walking along the river Tambre

Negreira: Hostal La Mezquita, rooms and restaurante

Negreira: The old town gate

Capilla San Mauro, Requiem

Memorial for the Galician Emigrants

Galician Diner

Caminho Portugues, Rest Day in Santiago

2011-01-02T13:51:00.001-07:00

Gary, Day of rest in Santiago: Pilgrims gathering-

Queue at the Pilgrims-office

Happy Pilgrims from Venezuela:
Marianna and Macarena

Happy Ingo, arriving Praza Obradoiro

Setsuko and Ingo, Praza Obradoiro

Cathedral, the Statue of St. James

A Pilgrim, near the Pilgrim-Office

Pilgrims hurry up to the Porta Santa

Pilgrims arriving the Praza Obradoiro

Rolf and Edgar, Pilgrims from Rottweil, Germany

The Jazzman from Santiago, Praza Quintana

Two Argentinos playing a famous guitar tune
beside the Pilgrim Office

Paolo, Pilgrim from the Valle d'Aosta, Italy,
the Bar near Porta Faxeira

Pilgrims, Praza da Immacolata

The top of the Cathedral, St. James as a Pilgrim

dinner in the restaurante "As Brabantas" with
the Pilgrims known from Padrón

saying Goodbye. The next day,
I am starting the Camino Finisterre

Caminho Portugues, 12. Stage

2011-01-02T12:48:00.002-07:00

Stage 12: From Padrón to Santiago de Compostela

Horréos at the Village Vilar

Horseshoe, no confidence to St. James

Hiking along the road N550

grapeharvest near the Village Teo

Cruzeiro in Teo

Through the Forest, near Casalongo

Milladoiro, view to Santiago de Comostela (SdC)

Ponte Sarela, periphery of SdC

Lovely Rose, View in a garden

In Santiago, Praza do Toural

A relaxing Pilgrim

Queue in front of the Porta Santa
(The holy gate), Cathedral SdC

Scaffold in the Cathedral

Cathedral, Altar

A glad Pilgrim, Praza Obradoiro

A praying Pilgrim, Praza Obradoiro

Santiago de Compostela, Cathedral

A tired Pilgrims arriving SdC, Praza Obradoiro

Happy Pilgrims, Wolfgang, Lena
and Cristina, Praza Obradoiro

Diner in Restaurante Menon do Arreiro

Singing Pilgrims, Praza Praterías

Caminho Portugues 11. Stage

2011-01-02T11:20:00.003-07:00

Gary, now Stage 11: From Caldas de Reis to Padrón

The Bridge over the Rio Bermana, Caldas de Reis

now Stage 11: From Caldas de Reis to Padrón

Gallego near Carracedo

Galician cabbage, named Calos

On the road after Cortinas

Galician urn-graves, near San Miquel de Valga

After San Miquel de Valga

Official Credentcial-Control, without this control-stamp
no Compostela (against the "Bus" Pilgrims)!

A tired cat (or: oh god! one pilgrim more)

Through an Eukalyptus-forest

Beautiful dogs

Padrón, Rio Ulla and the Convento do Carmen

St. James as Matamoros, in the St. James Church

Convento do Carmen

Piementos de Padrón

Hans, eating the piementos, delicious!

At the evening, a nice German-Peregrinas,
with Paolo from the Aosta-Valley

The End of a very nice day

Caminho Portugues, 10. Stage

2011-01-02T10:53:00.001-07:00

Gary, now Stage 10: From Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

leaving Pontevedra in the early Morning,
the Bridge over the Rio Lerez

Cruzeiro

from blacktop to gravel, terrible to walk, near San Mauro

smalltalk with Gallegos

French Pilgrims from Séte, I met a couple of days

Gallegos

Through the vineyards

a good grapeharvest

Lunch in the Hotel Crzueiro, in CdR, free of charge,
because the room wasn't immediatly available

The old Bridge over the Rio Bermana

Ingo, always funny, although in pain from his feet

The Church Santo Tomás e Palmeiras

The thermalsprings, known before
the time of the Romans

Gary, now Stage 10: From Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

A nice Pilgrimgroup from Kuoppio, Finland

Caminho Portugues, 9. Stage

2011-01-02T10:33:00.002-07:00

Stage 9: From Arcade to Pontevedra

Ponte Sampaio

Stage 9: From Arcade to Pontevedra

The Calzada, a roman road

The Camino at the Alto da Canicouva

A tired spanish Pilgrim

On the road

A Pilgrim Cruzeiro

The Blacksmith

The Madonna as a Peregrina,
inside the Santuario Virxe Peregrina

The Convento Franciscano

Praza Lena

Praza Herreira, the Virxe Peregrina in the back

Santuario Virxe Peregrina, with the floor plan like a shell

View from the Convento Franciscano
down to the Praza Herreira

the altar of the Basilika Santa Maria A Grande

The Frontside of the Basilika A Grande

Caminho Portugues, 8. Stage

2011-01-02T09:44:00.003-07:00

Hi Gary,
the next Photos from the Stage 8: From O'Porrino to Redondela-Arcade

A lot of Pilgrims on the Caminho the last 100 km
to get Compostela certification

Setsuko and Me

Up to the Monte Cornedo

Near Redondela

Ria Vigo

Goodbye Setsuko, she goes to Vigo

Fountain, near Outeiro de Penas

Ria Vigo

Enjoying the Sun

a little Dinner

Evening at the Ria Vigo

Caminho Portugues, 7. Stage

2010-11-27T16:53:00.000-07:00

Hi Gary, now the stage 7: Fom Tui to O'Porrino

Cruceiro San Telmo

Rain begins at the Cruceiro

A Pilgrim protect his feet against the rain

Heavy rain on the Road to O'Porinno

ditto

Pilgrims near O'Porinno

100 Km to Santiago

Municipial from O'Porinno

The Roman bridge of Tui

Evening in OP

Caminho Portugues, 6. Stage

2010-11-24T13:10:00.000-07:00

Hi Gary, now Stage 6: From Rubiäes to Valenca/Tui

Rubiäes, Bar Ponte Nova

always Rain

to take a Motorcycle could be better than walking today

near Fontoura Fuente

a little medieval bridge

Ingo and Hans in a Bar near Valenca

Valenca: Fortaleza

Valenca: in the old town

Valenca: in the church

Valenca: Setsuko gets her Sello

Valenca: Fortaleza

Valenca: View over the River Minho to Tui

Valenca: Fortaleza

The Steelbridge over the Rio Minho (the Portugal-Spain border)

arriving Spain

allos, the typical, galician dinner

Caminho Portugues, 5. Stage

2010-11-18T15:18:00.000-07:00

Hi Gary, the next photos from Stage 5: from Ponte de Lima to San Roque-Rubiäes in the morning till high noon, rain, heavy rain-

View from the Bridge to Ponte de Lima

along the Waterway

following the next waterway

a steelbridge over the River Labruja

the path to the Village Arco

Village Rivolta: breakfast in the Café Nunes with Ingo and. . .

. . .Setsuko

The Village Labruja

up to the "Portela Grande", 410m

Cruz dos Franceses

John, the Scotsman from Glasgow, at the Portela Grande

Setsuko and Hans at the Portela Grande

The Village Aqualonga

a little Roman Bridge, near San Roque

The Bar Constantino, we stayed for dinner

Dinner in the Bar Constantino

Caminho Portugues, 4. Stage

2010-11-17T15:45:00.000-07:00

Hi Gary, Now Photos from Stage 4: From Tamel to Ponte de Lima

Church of Aborin, after Tamel

Calzada

Ponte de Tabuas

Balguaes

Vitorino de Piäes

Cruzeiro

Arriving Ponte de Lima

Capela Sao Sebastiáno

The 'old Bridge' of Ponte de Lima

Chestnuts

Salvador Vieira's "Alegoria ao folclore"

Musicans

The Bridge at Night

Praca Chafariz at Night

Caminho Portugues, 3. Stage

2010-11-15T12:47:00.028-07:00

The famous cafe "A Brasileira" in Braga

The Cathedral "Se de Braga"

Porta Nova

The Castle in Braga

Frutas

From the storm yesterday

The Arcada

Hans back in Barcelos, starting to Tamel

Marker

Landscape before Lijó

Capela Santo Sebastiáo

Landscape after Lijó

Albergue "Casa de Regolata"

Capela Espirito Santo

Pilgrims preparing the dinner

Pilgrims in the new Alberque "Casa de Regolata" in Tamel

Caminho Portugues, 2. Stage

2010-11-14T12:25:00.000-07:00

Gary, now the pictures from Day Two - 2. Stage: Vila do Conde-Barcelos

Very severe "Gota Fria" heavy rains & winds over 100 km/h

Flooded streets, we must go by Taxi to Barcelos. Walking was impossible

Our flooded Place, we couldn't leave the House

Templo do Bom Jesus da Cruz

The Rooster of Barcelos - same legend as Santo Domingo

"Jesus"in Bom Jesus was found long ago on flooded land

The Church "Matriz"

The archaeological Site arround the Church Matriz

Musicans

Setsuko and Hans, listening the musicans

Dinner named "Zicolian" (kid)

Rua D. António Barroso at night

Caminho Portugues, 1. Stage

2010-11-12T11:26:00.041-07:00

Hi Gary, now Pictures from Stage 1: Porto Matosinhos-Vila do Conde

Port of Matosinhos

Rocks

breakers

welcoming Bar

Hans on the beach

Peregrina from Tokio with the japanese Credential

Frio?

Rui-Felipe says: Kisses ar for love, embracings are for friendship!

Pumpkin

Arrow-Mark

Vila do Conde: Rio Ave

lace making statue in Vila do Conde

Casa Hospedes in Vila do Conde: "O Manca d'areia", very nice

at the evening in Vila do Conde: Restaurante: table napkin

Hans Walkabout Porto

2010-11-05T10:22:00.051-06:00

Hi Gary,

now i send you Photos from Porto, I shot at Fryday, 1 Okt.: Sightseeing and Portwine

Best, Hans

The Airplane to Porto

The Azulejos (typical tiles) Church "Las Almas"

Mercado Bolháo

Entrance from a shop

Azujeos (typical tiles) in the Railway Station

Cathedral of Porto

Cloister, covered walk

Town Hall

Library Lesso, the most beautyful library of the world

Doublechurch Igeja dos Carmelitas, Igreja do Carmo

Grandma's laundry

Musicans at the quayside

quayside at the River Douro

schipping pier

The historical Tramway "Electrico"

Fishermen at the mouth of the River Douro

The Lighthouse at the mouth of the River

The Atlantic coast

Singers from the University

The famous Café "Majestic"

Sunset over the River Douro

view to the Quayside

The Steelbride "Dom Louis"

Hans- Caminho Portugues

2010-10-24T14:07:00.003-06:00

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: hans-otto schreyer <hans-otto.schreyer@t-online.de>
Date: Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 11:58 PM
Subject: Caminho Portugues
To: gary regester <garyregester@gmail.com>

Hi Gary,

the next three days I am away, I have to repair our Recreation-Vehicle by the Manufactory.
Then I have to sort my Fotos (more than 2000!), and I will send you each day a couple of Fotos. One now, me at the Cabo Finisterre! I had a great walk. First the very nice City of Porto, then the walk along the Coast. The terrible rain for a couple of days. The last 2 weeks we had wonderful Caminho weather. Santiago was full of Pilgrims, by feet and by Bus, from the whole world!!! (in November the Pope will come!) The the new camino to Muxia and at least to Fisterra and to the Cabo Finisterre.

Best, hans

How are Susan? greetings to her, please

--
Hans-Otto Schreyer
Telefon: 08142-49835
Handy: 0175-1007948

Arriving Finisterra - final days walk

2010-10-17T22:17:00.007-06:00

Hans- Today a nice day for walking to muxia. The church virxe da barca is built in the rocks at the sea. Very spektular. Tomorrow to fisterre

GR- I'm confused, Muxia, northwest of Olveiroa. Finisterra, southwest of Olveiroa. ???

Hans- Its ok, first i walked to muxia, and tomorow along the coast down to finisterre. There is a signed way. The galiciens are doing all for pilgrims.

19 Oct- Hans- Sit on the cabo, near the lighthouse and are waiting for the sunset. Here is the kilometer stonemark "0"! Fin de camino. Tomorrow back to sdc.

GR-Good morning and safe travel to home. Send fotos.

To Finisterre, day two

2010-10-16T10:32:00.005-06:00

Hans- Today from negreira to olveiroa, 33 km. Nice paths and hard roads. All quiet, only the noise of the wind. Stay in a nice pens: as pias. Tomorrow to muxia. Hans

GR- 33km today? Superman! Muxia seems north? Now are you preferring refugios or hotels?

Hans- The alberques are full and i prefer my own bath and like a quiet sleep! From muxia i will walk to finisterre and go back by bus to santiago tomorrow 25, next 30 to finist. My feet feel the pain!

GR- And then, no doubt, by foot to Rome!!?

Hans- In rome i was last year, you know!

GR- Yes, but now that you have happy feet. There is no stopping you! Gubbio to Rome is impressivo But finisterra to Rome, nay, to Jerusalem That must be next

Hans- Now i am tired. We had a dinner gallego, 4 italiani 3 canadians 2 brasilieros and 1 from france. We drunk a lot bottles of vino blanco and tinto. Now i will sleep

GR- Good sleep

On to Finisterre, end of the earth

2010-10-14T21:55:00.004-06:00

after a day in s, walked to negreira. A quiet day, only hens, dogs and wind. Not many pilgrims on the camino. Stay in a hostal, best hans

Wiki on Finisterre

Hans reaches Santiago

2010-10-13T23:26:00.003-06:00

Yesterday, at 14 o,clock, i arrived the kathedral of sdc. It was not so emotional as we had in 07. A lot of pilgqims are here. Tomorrow i will walk to fisterre

Congratulations Hans - we are hoping a co-pilger will send us an MMS of Hans.

Hans on Monday, 11 October

2010-10-11T16:43:00.001-06:00

Walking from O Porrino to Redondela, sunshine. Now bed in r, i walk 8 km more to paredes near arcade. Hotel direktly on riu vigo. Tomorrow to pontevedra. Hans

GR- Finally sonnen. May she stay with you to Santiago

At 2 pm i arrived caldas de reis. Have a nice hotel, O Cruzeiro, got free café con leche, then copa vino blanco and allas during waiting for room. Nice here. H.

GR- You deserve more than a coffee and wine. And you are closing on Santiago now

Hans passes to Spain

2010-10-08T09:30:00.003-06:00

gr- Where to today and tomorrow? I am posting yr pilgrims progress

Hans- Today i walked in heavy rain to valenca, visiting the fortaleza. AFter 6 hours, i crossed the bridge over the minho to tui, now in spain. To morow to mo s 21 km.

gr- San Diego gives you rain rain and also more rain. Sleep well

Hans- San diego can stop rain, i dont need more. I stopped because rain in o perrino. I take a room in a hotel, for better drying. Best hans

gr- your progress on blog vesicapiscium.com

gr- comparing to camino france, how many pilgrims walking each day in the rain.

Hans - until yesterday aprox 15-20. Since today at tui (100 km before sdc) maybe 40

Hans by October 6

2010-10-07T08:15:00.003-06:00

Guten Morgen, Hans, where to today?

Gary, flight at 30 sept to porto. Sightseeing and a glass portwine at okt 1. Along the coast to vila de conde at okt 2. At 3rd i went by bus to barcelos, because of rain and storm and water in front of the hotel here until noon! 4th okt in the morning by bus to braga, nice town, in the afternoon to tamel In the albergue. Next 5th okt to ponte de lima, 7 h, and today in 6 h to rubiäes till noon in rain. Adios hans

Hans Begins Camino Portugués on our 3rd Anniversary of Camino Francés

2010-10-05T23:36:00.005-06:00

Follow Hans on this interactive map here

Text messages so far:
Hans in Portugal, Gary in Venice (California)

Oct 1, 2010
Gary: Welcome to Porto. Can you send fotos from your handi?

Hans: Hi gary, beutiful town. I did a sightseeing tour. No photos, my handi is the same as we walked to Santiago in 2007. I try to handle a modern handy in my next life - a joke. Now I go to drink portwine!

Hans: Gary, I drink a glas for you and susan, promised

Gary: I will find some portwin to toast your walk this evening

Hans: Just now i lift a glass of port!

Gary: Good night Schlaf gut und Spaziergang gut

Oct 4, 2010
Gary: Where will you be tonight?

Hans: I am walking along the coast to vila do conde, sat. Ydsterday wd had a lot of rain and storm to barcelos. Now I visit braga. Now back to barc and walk to tamel.

Here is a quick overview of the Camino Portugués-

and a PDF of this route by the Confraternity of Saint James, UK

This route, which heads north following the Atlantic coast of Portugal and Spain, was used by Queen Isabel of Portugal (1271 - 1336) to make at least one pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Queen Isabel was canonized in 1626 and this is celebrated on her feast day, the 8th of July.

The Route. Starts at Porto in north-west Portugal and continues northwards crossing the rivers Lima and Minho where it enters Spain. Still heading north, the river Ulla is crossed at Padron before arriving at Santiago. The total distance of (about) 232k can be divided into 117k for the Portuguese section and 112k from Tui to Santiago, with 3k for the transfer from Valenca across the border at the Rio Minho to Tui. Note: these are composite values based on five sources.

Length and Suggested Daily Walks.

Porto - Vilarinho 26k From the cathedral an initial 9k along city streets to a junction at Araujo where the camino turns right along a secondary but busy road to Vilar Do Pinheiro and Vilarinho.

Vilarinho – Barcelos 26k Pleasant rural settlements and wooded areas, passing through Rates to descend to the R.Cavado and reach the market town of Barcelos.

Barcelos - Ponte De Lima 31k Along rural and secondary roads with some forested areas. From Tamel [ 9k railway station] to Balugaes [13k] often wet in places and care needed to follow waymarks. After Vitorino De Piaes and Portela a long descent to the valley of the R.Lima and on to Ponte De Lima.

Ponte De Lima - Rubiaes 17k At times a damp track which follows streams and climbs through the forest to Portela Grande at 433m before descending to Rubiaes.

Rubiaes - Valenca 17k Cross the R. Coura to the pass at S. Bento Da Porta Aberta and descend to the valley of the Minho. Cobbled lanes give way to roads leading into Valenca.

Valenca - Tui 3k Walk down to the R.Minho and cross by Eiffel's Puente Internacional. Continue following the yellow arrows along urban 'lanes' to the cathedral.

Tui - Porrino 15k From the cathedral the camino descends to the valley of the R. Louro which is followed to Porrino; sometimes in damp stretches and eventually for 7k alongside a vast industrial estate and the outskirts of Porrino.

Porrino - Redondela1 14k For 3k the route follows the N550 and then, at Mos, takes minor roads and a few tracks through well wooded countryside until the descent into Redondela by the Ria De Vigo.

Redondela - Arcade (Pontesampaio) 9k By minor roads, keeping to the west of the N550 to enter a forested section which joins the N550 at the entrance to Arcade. 1k to the bridge at Pontesampaio.

Arcade - Pontevedra 10k Through the backstreets of Pontesampaio to enter and follow a sunken lane which climbs to a wooded and agricultural area. A long road section of 4k leads to the outskirts of Pontevedra.

Pontevedra - Caldas De Reis 23k Through the city of Pontevedra,crossing the 'old' Burgo bridge to continue through a long well wooded valley bordered by the railway. After 6k the camino enters an area of mixed farmland and small plots and follows a cross country route parallel with the N550 until the immediate outskirts of Caldas De Reis.

Caldas De Reis - Padron 19k A rural and well wooded section until Pontesecures is reached. Cross the R.Ulla and enter Padron.

Padron - Santiago de Compostela 20k After 2k of main road the camino follows minor roads through hamlets and fields generally between the railway and the A9. At 9k cross the A9 and continue along minor roads through the 'new' town of Milladoiro. On the summit of the next hill the spires of the cathedral can be seen. Just after crossing the railway track and the R.Sar, the outskirts of Santiago are reached and yellow arrows lead to the cathedral.

Cammino di Francesco DVD

2010-02-11T15:43:00.001-07:00

From: Hans-Otto Schreyer <Hans-Otto.Schreyer@t-online.de>

Date: Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 12:37 AM
Subject: Cammino di Francesco DVD

Hi Gary,

soon I will send you the the Movie, I am working now. It will bw burnd in NTSC-USA-Code.
You know, that the Titles/Undertitles I write in german. So I will give you some Information for the days I walked to Rome.
So print this letter, for a better reading.

At first, there are 3 Pilgrimways to Rome:
1-Via Francigena, from Canterbury, through France, Switzerland, to Italy. Through Piemonte, Toscana, Lazio.
1-From the Monastery La Verna to the Rieti-Valley
3-From Florence/San Ellero, via La Verna, Gubbio, Rieti to Rome.
I selected the last one, because I thought, it will be better to walk over the Mountains.

1 day: 30.september/1. Oktober
So I go by train to Perugia (look for all the - very old - towns into Internet/Google for Informations, then by Bus to Gubbio, got a nice Hotel, and started a tour around the town.

2. Oktober
The first leg were new marked, as the "San Francesco Peace path" from Gubbio to Assisi,
I started to walk out of Gubbio to the south, on the right side of the wide valley, up to the hills. The first leg was short, good for walking at the first day. But, the Hotel was closed. So I must go forward and I find a wonderful Hotel.
(Notes: the most of all, I must take for Overnighting a Hotel, and I was always the only one guest)

3. Through a lovely Landscape I walked to Valfabricca, and stayed in a Ostello (like a Youthhostel), the only one lowprice overnighting.

4. Oktober
A walk in a part of a bad path through a dark fosse. Then, lovely, to Assisi. There was a celebrationed the birthday of San Francesco over the weekend. A Lot of people of all the Regions of Italy were comming. I went down to the Basilika San Angeli, with the tomb of San Francesco, and at the Evening I went through Assisi.

5. Oktober
This Part, I walked over the Monte Subasio, 1000 Meters up to the Summit. At first, very steeply up to the little Hermitage, then up through dense trees, over meadows, and then down to Spello. I met a young italian men, called Dario. He walked another way, and we seid goodbye few Minutes later (but a week later, I met him again). A nice hotel, a nice old roman Town.

6. Oktober
From Spello though the wide plain at the right side, to Bevagna and to Montefalco. I met Italian people, talked with its. An easy walk, this day. In Montefalco I met the Barber called Fortunato, in front of the (very, very nice-look accurate the picture!) Restaurant I had the Diner. The Hotel was like an Antiquary shop, very nice! The ways at this leg and also further, were not marked, to find only the Informations from my guidebook, written like: ...walk straight on, under the Superstrada, 200m right, near the 3 Oaktrees left for 1500 Meters, on a winding street at the yellow house right, to a chapel, then trough an wineyard to a farmerhouse, 2000 Meters straight on, the second blade of Grass left...et cetera. Sometimes I walkeded with the Guide book in my Hand!!!

7. Oktober
This day started through a nice landscape, easy. In the Afternoon I lost the way and I had to go few Kilometers more on a hard road, saw a a Bar, later a Jail. As I reached Spoleto, I decided to take the Hotel up, near the castello and the old bridge, over it I must walk the next day. So I went the stairs up, and I met the Ladys from Colorado, you know. In the evenig I had a tour through Spello. Very nice!

8. Oktober
Shocking! The Bridge was closed, so I must go down over the Superstrada and up to the point I had to start up to the Monte Luco. Up on the hill, there is situated the first monastery Francesco had founded. Then I walk again a little bit up, and the a very lonesome path down to a destroyed little village called "Le Cese", up to a Pass and down to Ferentillo, a nice Umbrian Village, with an interesting Museum of Mummies, with in naturally mode conserved bodies. A hard day.

9.Oktober
A very hard day, up over 1000 Meters, very lonesome through a lovely landscape and down, the most an a hard road, to a Hotel, situated in the Height of 1100 Meters, the only one guest, (how always). I got a very delicious Pasta, I fell in a Pastacoma!!!

10. Oktober
Overnight the weather has changed to a tempest, heavy rain with thunder and lightning. In the Morning, I couldn't start. The Chief didn't like that I would stay in the Hotel, because over the day it was closed. So he brought me to the next Town I had to go at this leg, "Poggio Bustone", with a Monastery from San Francesco (SF), the first in the Rieti-Valley. In the afternoon the rain stops and I had a quiet day.

11. Oktober
This part goes at the left side of the Rieti-Valley, particullary in fog to the little Village Cantalice, then over a Hill to the Monastery of SF "La Foresta" with the crevice, who SF live, and prayed (2. Monastery in the Rieti-Valley). In the Afternoon I reached Rieti, find a good Hotel, an had a tour through the city. In Rieti there is the geografic center from Italy, where i was standing upthere.

Second DVD:
12. Oktober.
From Rieti on hard roads, and up through a wood to the SF Monasters "Fonte Colombo" (3. Monastery), then down to the plain, on Country ways in a bow (see the Map I added, you be able to follow the Pilgrim way if you print it) to Contigliano: Before I reached Contigliano, I comes heavy rain, and i had to cut the day. I take a room in a Hotel. Then, it rains heavy, was very stormy (look for the Gardenfurnitures) and I was glad to decided, to stay there.

13. Oktober
A wondeful day, a wondeful (hard) tour up to the Village Greccio an to the Monastery, the fourth and last, in the Rieti-Valley. There I met an German Pilgrimgroup, an the next days I saw tis group often. After visting the Monastery, the path goes up in a height over 1000 Meters to a wonderful Meadow, an down, at first on a hard road, then on a terrible path to the Village Stroncone. There, I got no Room in 2 Hotel, but later, I got a Room in the Bed and Breakfast "Emily" with the very gentle owner Maria Cristina, a lovley woman.

14. Oktober
A hard day again. first to the Monastery "Lo Speco" with another crecive from SF. There, I met the German Group again. Then the path leads me up in a height more the 1000 Meters, and on a hard road to Calvi dell'Umbria. I got a Room in a closed Hotel. For Diner, I got a deep frozen meal (microwave).

15. Oktober.
A very cold morning. In Calvi I see a lot of "murales", (painted walls, like in Sardegna). I walked an small hard roads along a hill, very nice sight left and right. Down in a valley, and up through terrible pathes. I met a Belgian Busdriver, he was waiting for his group of 46 pilgrims, walking on part of the same way I walked. In the Afternoon I reached the Santuario
Santa Maria in Vescivio, a very old christian church, based on a roman commercial site, 3rd. century. I got a Room in an Albergo near the Church, an had a delicious Meal, Pasta and coney, Vino Bianco.

16. Oktober
Very cold again, when I started. This day I walked two short parts. At first on hard roads, terrible pathes, and throgh nice Farmers Land to the Village Poggio Mirteto. There was a market, and in the afternoon to the Village Farfa in Sabina, to the Monastery. There I met an german woman, she came from Cologne by bycicle. The Monastery is managed by the Sisters of Santa Brigida, very friendly.

17. Oktober
The last pilgrim Day! From the Monastery I went right up to a path, and along the hill to Fara in Sabina. (I met Angelo, look into his very, very old car, a inside painted roof). In a Bar I met a German Lady, married with an Italian, became aquainted in Chicago!!! The world is small! From Fara I take the Bus to Rome-Tiburtina, because it is not possible to walk to Rome by feet, it's very dangerous due to the Traffic around Rome. As I arrived rome, I went to the Basilica San Giovanni in Lateran (Lateran was an roman Quarter) there finished the Pilgrim Way. In this Basilica, SF got the acceptance for his canons from the Pope. The Sakristy was closed, I got no stamp for my Credenziale. Then I went to the Railstation, byed the Ticket and take a room near the station.

18. Oktober
This morning I take the City-tour-bus to St. Peter, a very impressed Church. (You ever stayed there?) I watched the holy Mess, but the Sagristy was closed, too. Try tomorrow.
The dome is 136m high. In and out of St. Peter, a lot of people. Then I walked through Rome to the most important points of interest. In the Afternoon I must back to the Lateran- basilika, to got the stamp.

19. Oktober
Again with the Cityhopper to St.Peter for getting the stamp. Monsignore Don Bruno gave me the stamp and a Testimonio, an affirmation to walk on the Cammino di San Francesco (like the Compostela in Spain). The I walked through Rome again, visited the Collosseum and the Foro Romano, It was very impressed. At the evening, I go by train at home over night, arrived Munich in the early morning.

Results:
It was an very impressed way, through a wonderful Landspcape and to meet old Culture, often pretty difficult to find the right way/path or to walk. And because nobody else was on the Way, a way into the lonelyness (over the whole days)
The Camino Frances was easier, but longer, needs persistancy, the Cammino di Francesco was shorter, but harder, needs experience in mountaineering and orientation. And I met friendly people. All in all, exiting days.

So I think, I can help you, to understand the sense, I wrote - and for a better understanding while watching the Movie. If you need further infomation, because you don't understand something, write back.

I hope you enjoy it. Best wishes for you, Susan, your Family,

have a contemplative advent season

Hans
and excuse the mistakes I wrote!
And maybe you find the Ladies Mary, Ellen, Feely and Terry, wich are working in the Emporium in Idaho Springs, with best wishes, too.
--
Hans-Otto Schreyer
Telefon: 08142-49835
Handy: 0175-1007948

Cammino di Francesco

2010-02-11T15:40:00.000-07:00

---------- Forwarded message ----------

From: Hans-Otto Schreyer <Hans-Otto.Schreyer@t-online.de>
Date: Sun, Oct 25, 2009 at 12:58 AM
Subject: Re: Cammino di Francesco
To: Gary Regester <garyregester@gmail.com>

Gary, I added 3 Pages from my Guidebook. and 1 Foto from the Monastery La Verna

They are 3 Canmminos/Via's,

for understanding

1. Via Francigena, you know it, this is the way you like to go, over Lucca, Siena, Bolsena to Rome,

2. Via Francesco, starting from La Verna (great Monastery from san Francesco) to Rieti Valley, there are 4 famous Monasteries, and ending in this valley at Poggio Bustone, the Guidebook is written by Mrs. Serachioli

3. Franziskusweg, wich I walked, starting near Florenz, over la Verna, Gubbio, Rieti to Rome. written by Kees Rodenburg, a Dutchmen.

I started at Gubbio, so I have 3 days to walk to Assisi, not so heavy, in a lovley landscape. After Assisi I must over the Mount Subasio, 1000 m up. This was the reeason, why i began 3 Days before.

La Verna, is on a Pass, you will find eastern 390/40 km from Florenz, Northern from Gubbio, The Village near is "Chiusi La Verna", also at the Pass. Left down you find "Bibbiena", and right "Pieve San Stefano".

Best, Hans

Cammino di Francesco

2010-02-11T15:38:00.002-07:00

21 Octobre 2009
Hello Susan

Hello Gary,

Yesterday I was back from Rome.

It was a very interesting way, not so long how the camino, bat through a very nice landscape and through the Appenine Mountains, often very hard, long to 20 kn and up to 1000m!

I add some Photos. If you like a DVD from the Film I will made, tell me. I woill send you a copy.

All the days I went alone. I thought, this is a way into the loneliness! And always I thought at the Camino we walked together.

Best wishes

Hans

--
Hans-Otto Schreyer
Telefon: 08142-49835
Handy: 0175-1007948

From Hans, walking the Via Francigena

2010-02-11T15:33:00.001-07:00

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Hans-Otto Schreyer <Hans-Otto.Schreyer@t-online.de>
Date: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 at 11:55 PM
Subject: Re: walking the Via Francigena
To: Gary Regester <garyregester@gmail.com>

Hi Gary,

how are you? I hope very well!

Now I decided to walk along the Cammino (Via)di Francesco, from Gubbio to Rome. I start at September 30th. with the City-Nightline via Florenz to Gubbio, last week I buyed the Ticket. I think I will arrive Rome 20 days later. For the Okt. 21th. I got a ticket for an Audienz by the (German) Papst Benedikt 16th.! It will be very exiting.

Over the Internetsite "Eurovia" I buyed the maps for the "Via Francigena". The I followed the way along the map and I could see, that the most of the way will be to walk at had way/asphalt!!! This is the reason, why I like to walk the St. Francis-Way. This Pilgrim-Way goes the most along soft ways and paths near the Appenin. But, the daily Kilometers are shorter, but the difference in the Height goes up to 1000 meters! I think its like a walk in the Alps. You can watch it at the www.camminodifrancesco - see the Links, per example "Tappa".

Tomorrow, we will start for a 3 week journey to Italy and are back till the Sept. 26th. So I can visit some villages along the St. Francis-Way - to got some impressions, especially for my wife.

You where in holidays with your family? Tell me where you stayed and I will search in a map or over google earth.

Tell Susan all my best wishes, and I would be glad, If I could here from her.

So long and all the best for you

Hans

Fwd: Meeting of the Amigos del Camino at Zirl

2010-02-11T15:10:00.001-07:00

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Hans-Otto Schreyer <Hans-Otto.Schreyer@t-online.de>
Date: Tue, May 19, 2009 at 11:04 PM
Subject: Meeting of the Amigos del Camino at Zirl
To: melissa gravesen <melissa.gravesen@gmail.com>, Arlette Dubs <arlette.dubs@free.fr>, Susan Regester <dreamgases@aol.com>, gary regester <garyregester@gmail.com>

Hello together,

last weekend we met us at zirl, Austria. Dagmar invited the Switzland-Girls Beatrice, her daugther Rebecca, her Cousine Rita, then Marcel from Wallis/Switzerland and me.
It was very exiting to see the Amigos del Camino again, 1 1/2 years later!
They came to Zirl fryday evening. Then we had a lot to talk, drunk al lot of red wine (Rioja!).
Saturday we were walking behind Zirl 2 hours up to a Maountain Hut. And in the evening we talk again. Sunday, we said goodbye, they went back to Sitzerland and I go back at my hometown.
It was very funny (thanks to Dagmar for all) - and I think, we will see us again.
I gave all the greetings from you and they give it back to you.

I add some Fotos and i hope you will remember at all the Amigos

I hope it happens, that we will meet us together!!!!
Tomorrow we are starting to Scotland for 4 weeks. We will come back at the end of June.

Have a good time - I wish you all the best. I would be glad, to hear from you!!!

Hans

Fotos:
1.- Marcel, Rita, and me
2. Dagmar from Zirl
3. Rebecca, Switzerland
4. Marcel, Beatrice, Switzerland
5. Asha, Berlin
6. The group at the "Brunnthal-Guesthouse" above Zirl
7. Dagmar, Marcel, Asha
8. The Switzerland Girls, watching my Camino-Film
9. The most important tools
10.In the eveving
11.Dagmar
12.Asha, Beatrice
13.Rebecca, Marcel
14.Rita and me
15.Time to say goodbye

--
Hans-Otto Schreyer
Telefon: 08142-49835
Handy: 0175-1007948

--
Gary Regester
garyregester.com / plumeltd.com
888 Main St / PO Box Nine
Silver Plume CO 80476
studio +1303 569.3236 fax . 2932
mb +1303 888.8099

El Camino [Real, Los Angeles] + dos años

2009-10-01T13:28:00.000-06:00

Santiago at Musso Franks - one year later

2008-10-01T22:45:00.000-06:00

camino mysteries

2007-12-11T10:56:00.001-07:00

pots on roof lines, bottles half full of water tied to pillars, or outside the entry door and single bottles hung in fruit trees ... why?

37 days older, no wiser

2007-12-01T12:39:00.001-07:00

punishment of the lustful

2007-11-24T16:21:00.000-07:00

Sheela na gigs in Puenta Del la Rhiena (C, above),Green Men in Burgos (B), and in Santiago (A, above) - "Castigo de los Lujuriosos" (Punishment of the Lustful) removed into the museum beneath the Cathedral from the Portico de la Gloria - let that be our lesson. (Klick on the photo to enlarge - this and all others.)

arias of madness

2007-11-24T08:01:00.000-07:00

Cees Nooteboom writes, pp 200-1: "The pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela is one of the arias of madness of European opera, a gigantic migratory flow, a movement of millions of extras, an unceasing stream of scallop-bearing pilgrims from all corners of Christendom, who found shelter and sustenance...on their way to the Pyrenees and beyond, until they reached the camino to Santiago. What that massive adventure signified in terms of religious zeal, political, social, economic and artistic influence is almost impossible to imagine. For centuries, a whole army was permanently on the move across Europe, where the foot was the unit of measurement. Everyone who joined...abandoned hearth and home to the vagaries of circumstance, the dream of every romantic soul, not in those uncertain times, but in later ones. Thus the pilgrimage became a myth in its own right, and the links between northwestern Spain and the European north continued to strengthen, the desire for reunification with the Arab-occupied parts of Spain deepened." from "Roads to Santiago", Harcourt, 1992 isbn 0156011581 Of this mad aria, we were drawn, became a part and cannot stop the dreaming - drawing bits of ghosts back to hearth and home.

eight tones to the palomars

2007-11-19T19:17:00.000-07:00

At a distance, my first sight of what I was to learn was the ruins of a spanish palomar (above, 1-3) seemed a giant pine cone or pomegranate - a part of the larger group of fecund symbols that then reappeared in the hands of the Black Madonna and Christ Child in the Cathedral of Santiago - a group of symbols that may include the "pigeon pod" seating arrangement in the certainly phallic shaped jet airplane that brought us to and from Spain. For reference (I am only the messenger!): "Thyrsus" or espanol "Tirso" as in St. Thyrsus/Tirso, popular in Iberia.

The palomar is probably my most important "archetype" found walking the Camino - such information is proving very hard to find on the "information highway" and is yet outside my rational understanding - certainly, Jung and his ilk must have noted palomars - phallic cones full of nesting "seed" pairs. Having asked that evening in the refugio as to what it was that I had photographed, I understood that I had for several days collected photos of strange circular outbuildings with phallic points around the roof's edge (#4,7 crown of thorns and several following) with the Christian cross over the single door (#7, compare with #8 from Scotland).

Compare "dovecotes" with "palomars", specifically, "palomars of Palencia" and the "colombier" - a popular French surname as well as the name for towns. And the earlier egyptian dove cote - this reference mentions that "The dovecotes were often situated in an outlying farmstead, where they either occupied part of some outbuilding, or stood alone, frequently adjacent to a vineyard or garden. The latter was a convenient location, since pigeon dung was largely used to fertilize land used for these purposes." All the palomars we walked past were set off and away from any other buildings - in our unaware haste, I did not notice any adjoining vineyards or gardens, but I imagine there were or once was. A number of references point out that only the noblepersons were allowed to build and maintain palomars - too typical of sacred and semi-sacred inventions. (Strangely, as a child and not of noble birth, I keep racing pigeons for a dozen years - very curious.)

Says a Dutchman! from Wild Spain.com - "No flatter country than Zamora. And to see these remarkable buildings, pigeonries, 'palomars', in the quivering heat at these plains, that is really a first class experience. The pigeonries once were built for the manure, which was used as fertiser on the fields. Their shapes are mostly round, but also square ones exist in Zamora, and the latter ones almost look like chinese buildings..."

duet "la flecha amarilla"

2007-11-18T17:52:00.000-07:00

In many, many ways, to walk the Camino is to become a participant in some sort of grand everchanging orchestration that includes the sun and passing clouds, the fellow peregrinos - appearing and vanishing, the cold morning and its hot noon, the next village and following villager...and is there a director to this orchestra? Indeed! the yellow arrow - la flecha amarilla - in its ten thousand manifestations.

correspondence - melissa gravesen

2007-11-18T15:19:00.000-07:00

Subject: the next crazy 'ventures beneath the skies...
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 16:45:04 -0700

Gary, thank you for your greetings. I look forward to browse around your different blogspots and sites .

I decided not to check my email for a month - my month of "solitude" - but then I brought my cellphone, and I admit I sent more text messages then I had planned on. Well anyway, three more days to go. I'm in a hostel in Madrid (no sleep at all now), so I finally caved in for that internet. I hope that all is well and that you have adjusted somewhat of being back/off/on the track(?).

The fever began that dark morning when I last saw you in Triacastela. I was able to make those kilometers to Sarria, though - with those sad raindrops in mind - I realized that I had better to stay in bed for 48 hours with shattering teeth.

I made it to Santiago on Wednesday, the day that I heard that you left. Wandering - with those boots off - someone calls from the corner of the street, the part with sunshine, Hans!

So with the feeling that something had ended, and my Achilles tendons being too sore for another step at the moment, I took the bus to Finisterre. Ah the sea!

"Yes, to dance beneath the diamond sky with one hand waving free,
Silhouetted by the sea, circled by the circus sands,
With all memory and fate driven deep beneath the waves,
Let me forget about today until tomorrow."

Two days of rest, and I was ready for the road again. Then I reached a point where the Camino had to end for me. But I guess that if I've learned something, it's that the road never ends.. (not to speak of that wandering!)

I guess all you can do is keep on striving for that "built-in happiness", as Dylan writes in his Chronicles (describing his wife):

"The one thing about her that I always loved was that she was never one of those people who thinks that someone else is the answer to their happiness. Me or anybody else. She's always had her own built-in happiness."

Give Susan my regards.
Best wishes,
Melissa

Subject: under those feet?
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 00:58:24 -0700

Gary, nice to hear from you, a smile this tired morning!
just a quick line (for the moment), before continuing those last breaths of
Madrid's art, to tell you that you are welcome to add these lines..

Saturday I will be back in the north, hopefully beneath a diamond sky and on
to some sleep.

"sometimes you could be looking for heaven in the wrong places. sometimes it
could be under your feet. or in your bed."

Hoping for winking stars in Colorado and agreeing on no tiny specks receeding!

melissa

p.s.
wiggle, wiggle, wiggle in your boots and shoes,
wiggle, wiggle, wiggle, you got nothing to lose

home hills...Camino therapy

2007-11-08T13:32:00.001-07:00

Back in the USA - deep in deepening Camino denouement - the unravelling of the knot! and that of the plot! The guide books all warn pilgrims about reaching their goal. Ten nights since reaching Santiago. Jet lag should be over. But my dreams still are only about the "texture" of the Camino- the walking surface, trees passing overhead, weaving dairy cows, faces of the village folk, cobbled lanes....finding myself lost.

So! for some quick Camino therapy, a three hour walk yesterday on my own home "texture" - "training grounds" for the Camino - photos above - and dreams last night? ...much better... or do I really mean that? Perhaps the Meigas de los Camino have placed their grip on me.

the Mad Compactor walks the Camino

2007-11-05T08:26:00.001-07:00

No boots, no coat, no pants, no hat, no sleeping bag - Oh, My! Extreme Camino?

Having made one walk, what would I recommend to others planning to walk the Camino. My thinking might be a bit extreme - that everything should have a double or triple purpose and if not, see if you can lighten the load a little with that thought. I lecture to professional photographers on choosing and packing as much double purpose camera, lighting and support equipment into airline checkable cases so that you can re-create a full photo studio at your destination - more difficult now than before 9/11. My lecture has come to have the title "Gary Regester, the Mad Compactor".

So now the "Mad Compactor" has walked the Camino - what would I take if I did it again? For interest, my rucksack with water, but no lunch or walking poles, hung on the scales in the pilgrim's office in St Jean Pied de Port at 9 kg (20 lbs) - Some peregrino has said "your rucksack should never weigh heavier that 10 percent of your body weight" - a very VERY good rule - then I was about a kg too heavy - not bad. But I can do better.

Next time here is what I would take with some notes on why. This a list of a low maintenance male, walking in the cool of October, weights in at 5.5kg (12 lbs) including 1 liter of water, but without lunch or poles:

Rucksack - a German Deuter AClite 25 liter day pack. This was about half the capacity compared with most of the rucksacks on the Camino, but 10 liters larger than the Deuter AC Lite 15 which I first planned to use. I would use it again - very simple design - and with the Deuter label (vs the USA's North Face - also common on the Camino) I was assumed to be a German pilgrim (until I spoke) - with America's current reputation in Europe and Spain, this seemed a good idea. This rucksack also came with a rain cover. I chose a bright orange color largely for safety reasons. My sister loved her Osprey, I will get that model name.

Sleeping bag - no sleeping bag - instead two sleep sheets and added the refugio's blankets. In the very few refugios that did not offer a blanket - maybe three times - I nested the two sleep sheets and sandwiched my modified down filled vest - folds out as a blanket (see pic #3 + #4 above). My sister did take the lightest weight REI down sleeping bag available and it proved too warm throughout the walk.

Outer rain/wind jacket - again, no outer rain/wind jacket. With the idea that everything is to have a double use, we chose, and would choose again, to use a lightweight fabric rain poncho (Sierra Design) as both a windbreaker and rain protection. As pic #2 above, the waist strap of the rucksack was very effective in closing the poncho from flying about in the wind. This poncho also can be tied open as a rain fly (never used this way on the Camino), but did use is as an extra layer blanket on a couple of colder refugios. Color: yellow and red for safety. Also, many peregrinos were also carrying rain pants - problem with rain gear is that your sweat working uphill stretches will make you more wet inside the rain gear than just to go with a well ventilated minimal poncho cover.

Coat- no coat. Prefer the flexibility of two down vests - one down vest with other layers as below, proved fine on 0c (32f) freezing mornings. Both are modified to be used as blankets by adding detachable coat zippers from the arm hole to the waist.

Sweater- black CRAFT pullover with zippered turtle neck - this CRAFT pullover proved slow to dry but worth the trouble in warmth and seem to be warm even when still damp. Also looked nice enough for the menu peregrino in the evening.

One long sleeved vented fly fishing shirt- easily washed, quick drying, good sun protection and turned out to be good wind protection as well. These shirts seemed popular on the Camino as they stay looking quite nice throughout the abuse.

Two long sleeved "lycra" type shirts - easily washed and dried, but with two shirts, no need to wash every day - the shirts I used had some antibacterial treatment which proved very socially acceptable to myself.

Pants - no pants. One pair walking shorts - easily washed and dried. As pic #1 above, the flat zippered leg pockets proved to be a better and safer place for currency, passport, credential, etc than the flat pouch that most pilgrims carry hidden around their waist.

One pair of black long nylon loose fitting long underwear - my secret "long pants" but also proved comfortable and modest to sleep in, washed and dried easily - did scare small children when worn in public when my walking shorts were drying. As pic #1 above, I wore these longjohns under my walking shorts on cold mornings - this too frightened small children and adults as this "layered look" may not have reached Galicia yet - though not uncommon here in Colorado.

Underware - no underware. OK, maybe one or two pair, but my hiking shorts had net version of this idea. Maybe a pair of Speedo swim trunks would serve as a double use alternative - though still frighten small children.

Sockings- two pair thin "silk" and two pairs thicker tech hiking socks. This combination allow for adjustment of thickness against blisters in the first ten days. Also used the second pair of thicker shocking as mittens when using the walking poles in freezing mornings.

Boots- no boots. I chose "vegan friendly" Merrill low top water shoes - the low top proved controversial - a number of the Australians and many of the Spanish walkers were using low top running shoes instead of high top synthetic or leather boots as the lighter weight low top uses arguably less energy per step. The surface of the Camino varies greatly from very rough large stones, uneven cobbles, gravel and long stretches of paved street and I think I might add more thicker insert for greater cushioning in the future - still the water shoe was fine in the rain and kept the socks dryer on hot days.

Hat - no hat. Will plan to double use my shower towel as a hat (next) which with very small modification is an warm hat with warm coverage for the neck on cold mornings. Also wear a bandanna for sun coverage of my bald head on hot days. Again, a hat is a hat and a hat only!

Shower Towel - an REI synthetic chamois skin - 15 x 27 inch (38 x 70cm size)

Alternate shoes for round town and refugio dormitories - one pair of "flip-flops" are probably the easiest and lightest solution.

Walking Poles - LEKI brand, these proved necessary on heavy blister days, hard downhill or uphill sections or during painful shinsplints or kneebrace days.

Wrist watch or similar - one with glow-in-the-dark function for learning what time it is in a dormitory at 4am in the morning. Altimeter and barometer functions would also be fun as you are crossing mountain passes and are very concerned with incoming weather.

Guidebook - very controversial - to keep things lightweight we chose the English Confraternity's Guide to the Camino Frances. But used the maps and refugio lists from the Spanish Tourism Office which also offers the heavier, but free, "Pilgrims Guide, The Road to Santiago" by Jose Maria Anguita Jaen, published by Editorial Everest (everest.es). Check Amazon.com for further review and discussion.

Notebook - tend to use "post-its" inserted into the guidebook rather than a notebook, but same weight.

Camera/telephone - 2007 trip, I used a Samsung Blackjack mobile telephone which, sacrilegiously, gave me access to the internet - oh the sacrilege! - all across Spain, full keyboard, and 1.5mb camera with photos uploads to this blog. Camera proved to have too great a compression ratio for a quality greater than stamp sized photos but was great for blogging. Also its very short range of shadow to highlight meant too high contrasty in many situations. If I was not blogging while walking, I would take a compact digital camera with at least 4 1GB of memory - at present my choice would be the Samsung NV10 - tiny, 10MB still camera and full frame 30fps video.

Four "Ditty Bags"- all in clear plastic bags - easier to find things - and to stay dry during rain - sorry, very noisy in the morning wake period.

#1 bag located in outside pocket, items easy to get while walking.
Small head lamp - the only time you need a head lamp is waking up in the morning and beginning to assembly your things in the dormitory in the dark - until a enough headlamps are glowing that someone will turn on the overhead lights. Is is very unlikely that you need this for walking in the morning, even in October, by eight am, there was enough light to walk.
Swiss Army knife - smallest one with cork screw - gives you scissors, knive blades, can opener (spain is now largely pull off lids on canned food)
Spork - spoon and fork combo "Light My Fire" Swedish spork - one euro
Lip balm with sunblock
sunblock - high SFP
10x monocular - used more than I expected.

#2 Bag - semi accessible - blister kit
Sewing kit with needles and thread for draining blisters.
moleskin variation - Johnson and Johnson "Compeed" brand blister protection available in all Spainish pharmacias (which outnumber grocery stores) were wonderful, though a bit expensive, but easy to find when and if you need them.
liquid second skin - seemed to help on the worst blister days.
antibiotic ointment - for cleaning the needle and the blisters.
KY Jelly Lubricant - don't laugh, for between the toes, ball and heel of foot - worked great, got some strange looks, works better and better as the foot sweats (and possible second use?)
toilet paper - for absorbing a draining blister and also readily available for its more traditional purpose.

#3 Bag - everything needed for a shower and washing clothes
toothbrush and toothpaste, floss
biodegradable laundry soap (could use for body as well)
bar soap in small plastic box
deodorant - which I repackage by re compacting into small lipbalm tubes
small magnifing mirror - (optional) as all refugios seemed to have large regular mirrors

#4 Bag - everything else - first aid, medicines, spares - not needed in a hurry
short rope for drying clothes inside the refugio - as on rainy or cold days
two USA/EC electrical plug adapters - two because you will loose one - available at airports, but I also luckily found in electrical supply shops in larger cities on the Camino.
600mg Ibuprofen - reduce swelling and pain - easy to find in Spain.
500mg Cipro antibiotic or similar - ask your doctor for a script
vitamins tablets
antifungal creme
6 or more moistened hand towelettes - might need on the Camino between showers
condoms - yes, but not to worry - "if you take an umbrella, it will NOT rain" - though the Camino does come under the will of las Meigas from Astorga through Galicia - beware.
assorted bandages
mobile telephone recharger
USB memory chip reader for digital phone/camera - many refugios now offer internet access
extra batteries for head lamp
three reading glasses - I am old.
spare writing pens - tend to lose one a day

So what did we NOT recommend:
no hat
no coat
no rain/wind jacket/pants
no long pants
no sleeping bag
no gloves
no boots
(too extreme? probably)

miracles - thanks to Hans

2007-11-04T06:45:00.000-07:00

up the camino high route out of villafranca del bierzo

deflecting cattle away from a frightened german peregrina

camera repair 101

bandage for a fallen knee

this walk was fraught with miracles - when we needed a translator from american english to spanish, an american living in spain was walking next to us. when we fell sick, a taxi cab driven by a former pilgrim appeared out of the mists.

but the most curious of all the daily miracles was falling into step for the entire month with Hans Schreyer - who engaged not only all fellow pilgrims - many at a moment of need - but all strangers - policeman and farmer alike - as well as small cats, all dogs, cows and sheep - often calling out to sparrows as we walked the hedgerows along the Way - and as Hans casts no shadow - it was a little like walking to Santiago with St Francis - without the stigmata problem (or at least, i think so).

more curiously, susan and i were originally planning to walk the camino with our maternal uncle who was instead called out of retirement to teach this fall's session when his university colleague fell sick. strangely, the camino provided our uncle - one that spoke all the necessary languages of the camino - yes, ok, german and lots of english and italian - some spanish as he invented it - but more by smile, hug and handshake - just so, the camino opened up before us - thanks to Hans.

by the time we arrived in santiago, familiar pilgrims would salute me and ask only "Where's Hans??"

susan suggests a few more photos of refugios

2007-11-03T20:47:00.000-06:00

roncesvalles

puente la reina, albergue santiago apostol

puente la reina dinner

municipal albergue in estella

kitchen in estella

breakfast in estella

rooms in estella

sahagun, albergue municipal

granon

Najera from Hans

all 1345 photos are now on flickr-sampling below

2007-11-03T20:26:00.000-06:00

All 1345 "postcards" are now uploaded on Yahoo's Flickr - click here. Note you can view as a "slide show", individually or as groups of 18 photos. Below is sampling of some of the better ones that did not get uploaded as we walked. In the 1345 pictures, you will also note my interest in sheela-na-gigs, posts with pebbles, strange bottles hung in trees or tied to porch pillars and other folk symbols.

finally the uk...a change in diet

2007-11-01T07:30:00.000-06:00

ryan out

2007-10-31T04:05:00.001-06:00

adios santiago

2007-10-31T03:29:00.001-06:00

79 year old nihonjin arrives santiago

2007-10-30T07:57:00.001-06:00

bare breasted gargoyles...and tiraboleiros

2007-10-30T07:12:00.001-06:00

botafumeiro...high, on right...tiraboleiros, lower left

2007-10-30T06:38:00.001-06:00

black madonna...pine cone and orb

2007-10-30T06:17:00.000-06:00

cloister..catedral santiago

2007-10-30T06:15:00.000-06:00

cloister and bells

2007-10-30T06:11:00.001-06:00